The Seronera Valley in the Serengeti is famous for the abundance of lion and leopard. The spectacle of predator versus prey dominates Tanzania’s greatest park. Almost uniquely, all three African jackal species occur here. But there is more to Serengeti than large mammals. Gaudy agama lizards and rock hyraxes scuffle around the surfaces of the park’s isolated granite koppies. Plains, stretching across sun burnt savannah to a shimmering golden horizon at the end of the earth.